hapa girl goes to japan. craziness ensues.

November 18, 2004

OTSUKARESAMADESHITA!

honto ni honto ni...everything is so truly madly deeply these days

So that's it, Jude Law and my Semester Abroad are over. And no, that doesn't make the title of this journal make any more sense than it ever did (you only would understand if you were a fan of Brand New, and even then it's inappropriate, given my situation...).

I will continue to update from home as long as I am still having closing thoughts on the matter, but then I believe it's back to my other life. The one where things make sense, and where I don't cry as much (yes, it's true, I teared up a great deal when I saw my parents at the airport, and then when I came home and saw the welcome home banner erected in my honor).

Already I feel overwhelmed by the sheer diversity and warmth of America. How thrilling it is to step into a room full of people who look different from each other, who act different and don't mind, and who don't immediately classify you as an outsider. How thrilling it is that when you bump into someone, they smile and say sorry, and perhaps give a little sass or joke. I'm waiting for the annoyance factor, but hopefully I'll have a little space to be blissful. I think I deserve it.

More to come, but now I must crash.

November 14, 2004

Totally worth it


yukio
Originally uploaded by sillyhapa.
Yesterday my friend Graham (journalism student at Northwestern) and I interviewed this woman (anchorwoman, commentator, and writer) as part of a Q & A series at JMR, and it was INCREDIBLE. She talked to us for over an hour in a teahouse (in perfect English) about the state of Japanese journalism, the difficulties of being a woman within "the most undereducated and conservative" industry (Japanese media), her close friendship with the imperial family, and her various experiences (including flying like some fighter plane last week).

She's an amazing woman, and it would be wonderful if I could do a more in-depth profile on her for something better than JMR. We'll see. Look how adorable she is in this picture, she was like, "Should I look all bossy?" Good times in Tokyo.

Here's the article:
Royals Insider Defies Press Club System and Gender Bias

November 12, 2004

As the end draws near...


ICU
Originally uploaded by sillyhapa.
Everytime someone asks me what I think about Japan, I have to find some different way to describe it. There is no one way to summarize my experiences here; there never will be, of course. Just a lot of frustration with being unable to truly explain myself. When you ask me this question, and I give you a truncated response, realize that it's only half a truth (or perhaps not at all), and the true range of my opinion on the subject is hidden somewhere so deeply that even I can't access it yet.

So. As my final days draw to a close, my friends and I have started to wonder what reverse culture shock will be like. No one could have explained to us what culture shock would mean before we arrived, and it's undoubtedly different for everyone, but it doesn't stop me from wondering. What will I miss about Japan? What will home feel like? While I like to imagine that there will be nothing but a misty-eyed sentimental outpouring of love upon my return, it's also quite likely that home won't feel just right, at least not at first. How banal. How expected. Despite my constant search for the universal chord (the writer's dream), the fact is that I like to arrive at it from unexpected angles. And yet there I will be, thinking "how wonderful it is to view home from a new perspective after these travels," and "how I appreciate my experiences abroad so that I can come home with a better sense of who I am and where I fit into the world," just like every other sap. Oh well. The world is too small to be truly unique. Unless you're Bjork.

In any case, what is certain is that I will miss my girly girls. Today at lunch we were sitting around, cracking up about Bobby falling asleep in class and the thrills of yeasty cheese and imitating our least favorite profs, and it felt like things weren't so bad after all. Like I'd reached a tolerable plateau, and maybe if I could just get over the hump of these first 5 months, I would acclimate to the 日本の生活 after all. But I'll never know, because I only have the privilege of this way of thinking while holding my homebound ticket in my hands, and knowing that this is not the case.

I find that our professors are an interesting resource when it comes to living in Japan. Because on the one hand, these are 外人 who have bitten the bullet and decided to actually LIVE in Japan, but on the other hand, such professors are not necessarily *normal* people. They are often people who are inwardly motivated, introspective, solitude-loving bookworms who are not looking for the same kinds of relationships with other people that I am (like all the generalizations there?).

The head of the Japanese Langauge Program spoke to our class about his experiences learning Japanese, and he readily admitted that he felt Japan was a racist country where an outsider can never feel truly comfortable, that Japanese people often go through life without close friends, that ICU's dream of being "borderless" is bullshit, and that the only way that he has been able to survive is because he "doesn't mind the racism and doesn't need a lot of friends." 面白いね? Even a highly respected professor, who is completely immersed in the system through his own choosing, considers such statements factual.

Japan is an odd place. I made this statement in the very beginning, and five months later I still stand by it. It may be true that the more you travel the world, the more you realize that everywhere is the same, and even my own current sense of comfort and complacency leads me to believe that humans are adaptable enough to thrive in even the most starkly contrasting cultures, but -- Japan is a place unto itself. Negativity, cynism and pessimism aside, I think you'll have to agree (or else I'm going to beat you up!).

November 07, 2004

Look ma, I'm online!

Here's a silly little article I wrote for Japan Media Review about cell phones in Japan:

Lost in Translation

November 06, 2004

Have you ever been to a party where all of the guests dress the same?


yukata
Originally uploaded by sillyhapa.
It was kind of like that on Mt. Fuji this weekend, when the six of us wore these trendy purple robes for pretty much the entirety of our stay. David and Raphael's gracious host family paid for all of us to chill out at Hotel Mt. Fuji Friday night (dude, host families are so bogus...), which was a wonderful and much-needed departure from the hustle of the city.

Part of the loveliness of this trip was, of course, the steamy public baths. It was so nice to be naked and warm and to gaze out at the view with my most wonderfulest of friends.

Fuji-san proved elusive when we reached the hotel, but we woke in the morning to see the snowy peaks and oft-depicted shape looming above us. Quite, quite beautiful.

So now it's back to the books for 11 more days. If I were at Pomona I would provide the traditional rundown of precisely how many tests and finals and papers and presentations and projects I have to complete before heading home, but I'll reserve that list for my own personal countdown. Let's just say, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, and it looks amazing indeed.

November 01, 2004

Yum. That's all I can say.

In good ol' Mike Fish style (he writes me these tomes from Sri Lanka, and I swear the whole things consist of how good Sri Lankan food is...), I'm going to let you in on a little secret. There is something I'm going to miss desperately about Japan. (shh! don't tell!) Here is just a sampling:

Sukiyaki and Shabu-Shabu. Kaitenzushi. Tonkatsu and ebi fry and all things crispy-fied. Curry Rice straight from the shokudo. Poifulls, Hi Chews and Pur. Agedashi Tofu. Curry Udon in extra large size. Okonomiyaki (though Janesta just doesn't put out). Kareage. Daikon salad. Ramen with seasoned boiled egg. Japanese-style pizza (which has oddly grown on me, despite the lack of crust and insistence on seafood topping). Yakisoba. Croquette. Those little hot dog sandwiches. The ICU Pan-ya and good ol' Shinri. Soft cream (sesame and squid ink flavor?). Ice cream crepes. Dita. Gyoza. Steam cake (sweet love straight from the bini). Mayonnaise flavoring. Pipin' hot! Fried rice. Takoyaki turned from sheets to balls before your eyes. Imagawayaki (filled with creamy). The list goes on and on.

The point isn't that you can't find these things in the States; undoubtedly these things are all SOMEwhere, in Little Tokyo or Uwajimaya or something. The upsetting thing is that they're EVERYwhere here, and I will miss walking down the street, hungry as hell and following my nose to the nearest ramen shop. Or tracing my fingers over every last option at the conbini, because where else can you get such delicacies at a 7-11? Storming the streets of Kichijoji, plastic foods beckoning from every window.

Above all else, it is my mouth that will miss Tokyo.

Halloween lasts forever some days.


dead man on train
Originally uploaded by sillyhapa.
Yesterday was Halloween, but it wasn't a very Halloween-y Halloween. Nick and I slept in enormously late, and I had little desire for costumes or candy, to be honest. Sometime in the afternoon I headed out to Roppongi Hills to buy some postcards for my friends (the museum store at Mori is supa-fly, by the way...), and though I only had about 600 yen to my name, also bought food for the apartment.

I'm not sure why I'm telling you the story of yesterday, except that it was an ordinary and extraordinary day. My life and not my life. Hm, maybe I should just continue. Nick and I have been surviving off of ramen with egg for far too long, so I bought baguettes and pesto and tomatoes and cheese and toasted some right fancy hors d'eouvres for the two of us before he headed off to Ginza.

Then it was David's birthday, so we met up at Musashi-Sakai for some nomihodai at Ikyuu (and got a free bottle of shochu for my october birthday!) with an interesting assortment of kids. Met a kid from the Air Force (or something, was I supposed to remember?) and his girlfriend, exchanged numbers so when they come into Roppongi for tequila tasting they can give us a ring.

Headed home around 11:30, fearing we'd missed the last train, and hopped into the car to find a large Japanese man SPRAWLED out, dead asleep in the middle of the floor. This delightfully ludicrous sight proved the catalyst for instant bonding with the other members of the car--without a doubt, more camaraderie with other train-riders than I've seen in my entire time here--who laughed and poked and took pictures and loudly commented on his sabishii state. Some time in between Musashi Sakai and Shinjuku, we started chatting up the cute girl across the aisle who spoke English really well (between the two of us, who could say no?). Turns out she lives really close to us, so we exchanged numbers and info before parting.

Then we headed home to our neighborhood restaurant, Alambique, a posh little place that Nick and I frequent so often, they give us drinks half off (or free) and extra food, and, you know, all that other stuff that happens when you're friends with the cooks and servers and bartenders. We hung out while they closed up, and then Rin (the captain of the bar?) came back to our place and hung out til like 3 in the morning.

Wow, my life sounds like...cool, and fun. I mean, I don't really make it sound like that (my detached tone doesn't imply much in the way of enjoyment, does it), but this is the stuff of Caleb's Crazy Tales from Paris (except everyone would be speaking French, and there would be a lot more "But I am le tired") or Pilar's Stupendous Tales from Brasil. Huh. Who knew.